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Tahtsa Lake to Prince George:
Well it is good to be back on the water once again, the 51 kilometer
portage now behind me...thankfully! Once paddling on Tahtsa Lake, I was
again right where I most wanted to be...ikn a canoe, paddling all the
way across Canada. The scenery here on Tahtsa Lake was just incredible.
A beautiful lake surrounded by majestic mountains and not another person
to be seen. Tahtsa Lake is part of the vast Nechako reservoir system however
and unfortunately it was not fully logged in the areas to be flooded.
This resulted in many, many dead trees still in the water and numerous
barely submerged logheads. Despite this though, it was still a beautiful
lake and I thouroughly enjoyed paddling it. My first night's camp was
on a nice gravel beach, littered with driftwood. I had a great camp and
relaxed after supper with a couple cups of coffee while reading until
the sun went down.
The following morning, I was back on the water, finishinf off the main
part of the lake and heading into "Tahtsa Reach", essentially
a second lake connected by lowlands that, at high water levels, are under
water. This time of year was perfect as the water was high. Tahtsa Reach
was nice but the main portion of the lake was the true gem. Next came
Ootsa Lake, amuch bigger lake, subject to heavyh winds and big conditions.
Luck was with me though and for the 125 kilometer portion of Ootsa Lake
that I paddled, I had great conditions. A nice little tailwind and following
seas of about 3 feet at most.

It got tougher when it came time to portage over to Skins Lake, the headwaters
of the Cheslatta River. The portage to Skins Lake took about an hour and
I was able to usethe cart for most of it. Paddling Skins Lake was nice,
a beautiful little lake with very pretty, rocky islands. Finally on the
Cheslatta River, time to see how the Clipper canoe handles the whitewater.
It has handled the coastal and lake paddling with ease so far, so much
so that I can barely wait to get it out into biggrer conditions on Lake
Winnipeg and Lake Superior in the months to come. The first set of rapids
was no problem. The next set though had a couple of significant, rocky
drops...time to portage. This portage was a bushwhack all the way. Only
a couple hundred meters but it took an hour and a half and 4 trips to
shuttle everything through...and along the way I had a black bear drop
by to say hello...luckily after exchanging pleasantries, he was on his
way and I was on mine, no damage done!
Back on the river after the second portage of the day, I paddled for
all of about 250 meters before it was once again time to portage, this
time it was a much longerportage, done along the riverbank on river left
around a long set of major rapids with a couple of waterfalls of 8 or
10 feet with a some nasty holes and boulders awaiting at the bottom...not
where I want to end up! Back on the water again, I paddled the next couple
of hours without incident although I did manage to bang a few rocks in
the river, nearly splitting a couple of them in two! Luckily the canoe
faired well along here. With the amount of weight I'm carrying, the canoe
was not extremely manoeverable in the rapids and I had to pick my line
early and get it lined up in advance whenever possible. Slowly however,
I found my river skills gradually coming back to me, particularly the
river reading aspect. It had been awile since I've run any amount of whitewater.
I spent the night camped on a nice gravel bar island in the middle of
the river a couple hundred meters above the next major set of rapids which
I will have to portage tomorrow morning.
When I arrived at the rapids the next day, I took out on river right
and scouted out the rapids and portage trail...oh...there is no trail!
Major bushwacking was going to be how the next few hours would be spent
as I shuttled my gear and canoe along over the course of three trips as
I leapfrogged along, one load at a time.Dense underbrush, thorn bushes,
downed trees and all...this portage "'had it all" so to speak!
Four hours later I was rappeling my gear down over a 50 foot drop to the
river bank down below, just beyond a rather large waterfall. A quick lunch
beside the river and I was back on the water again. The rest of the Cheslatta
River was a nice paddle with only minor class 2 rapids, all easily run
in the Clipper Sea 1 canoe. Soon I was out on open water, paddling along
on Cheslatta Lake where I found a beautiful campsite about a third of
the way down tghe lake where I had a very relaxed supper and enjoyed sitting
around a small campfire, watching the sun go down, once in awhile gazing
down the lake, wondering what lay around the next corner.Just hours since
I took out earlier today, alreadyI can barely weight to hit the water
again tomorrow morning!
Well....Life Is Good! Nothing like waking up on a beautiful lake to
a nice sunny sky complete with a light tailwind! Back on the water, I
paddled the rest of Cheslatta Lake, passing a huge moose along the way
in addirtion to several deer. Next came a black bear along the bank of
the lake which I watched for 15 minutes as I made my way past the point
where it was casually feeding. After Cheslatta Lake came Murray Lake then
a short stretch of the Cheslatta River again leading up to Cheslatta Falls.
Huge whitewater here along with a 2 kilometer portage, culminating in
a steep descent back down to the river at the confluence of the Cheslatta
and Nechako Rivers. This took about 3 and a half hours in total and included
great views of the river and some old ruins from the Carrier Indians,
shallow depressions in the ground upon which they would build their temporary
homes. I camped at the bottom of the portage trail along the bank of the
Nechako River which I'll be paddling all the way into Prince George over
the next four days and 290 kilometers.Once again, the weather was perfect.
I've had a grand total of one day of rain so far during the entire first
14 days of the expedition! Not bad at all 'eh?
The Nechako river started out fast and exciting, numerous class 2 rapids,
all easily run, a great river, very scenic and fun to paddle. A couple
hours into the day, I came to a cabin on river right with a few folks
out on the veranda. Bert Irvine, his wife and their son Mark. I pulled
up on the dock, we started talking and I ended up joining them on the
veranda for a nice break. Theyare the first people I've seen in 9 days!
I had a beer with Mark and Bert then we all went inside for sandwiches
on homemade bread, homemade cookies and hot coffee. Best of all was the
friendly chat, catching up on the news, getting an update of the NHL playoffs
etc. Bert has run a hunting and fishing guiding business here for nearly
50 years and was a wealth of local knowledge, I greatly enjoyed the 2
hour break in I spent with these fine people, things like this are what
will make this a great trip. It is not just about the paddling and seeing
the lakes, rivers etc. It is also about meeting interesting people along
the way and learning more about the areas I am lucky enough to be paddling
through as I retrace Canada's ancient trade routes. I ended up paddling
68 kilometers today despite some lengthy breaks and a late morning start.Along
the way I also saw numerous eagles, 2 mooseand thre more back bears.Set
up camp in a farmers field around 8:00 PM, 16 and a half kilometers upriver
from the Fort Fraser bridge. What a day! I'm having the time of my life!
Two days later I had the first real headwinds of the trip....as in HUGE
headwinds, very frustrating at times! I only managed 55 kilometers this
day despite putting in some long hours. Tonights camp was on a small island
in the middle of a big bend in the river, just past Finmore. Throughout
the night the wind howled relentlessly and I heard several trees come
crashing to the ground all through the night, giving in to the merciless
winds. OIriginally I'd hoped to be in Prince George by Saturday May 22nd
but with the winds, still howling when I got up in the morning and nearly
a hundred kilometers to go, I was resigned to it taking an extra day to
make it to Prince George where I'd be taking a break with my friends Ian
and Debbie Chadwick, a couple of awesome marathon canoe racers and truely
awesome people! I got back on the river and was making slow but steady
progress as I approached the first of 4 sets of rapids marked on the map.
I'd already paddled numerous sets of rapids along this river, none of
which were marked on the maps....I figured that the ones that ARE marked
may mean portages for me in my heavily laden canoe! I scouted the first
rapid from river left and saw an easy line of river right, just past the
small island dividing the river into 2 channels. Back in the canoe, I
ferried across the swift water, lined up and ran the canoe down the deep
V in the river and through the ensueing wave train. The Clipper canoe
cruised right through, shedding the waves like they were nothing! Nice!
The next rapid, a few hundred meters further downriver, looked doable
as well with lotsof eddies in case I saw something I didn't like. I easily
paddled right through, again on river right. Not a problem, 2 down, 2
to go! Once again ,the nexttwo rapids were no problem either, just a bit
of manoevering to get lined up for my run, a few adjustments along the
way and I was through! Making better progress than I expected dispite
the winds, I soon found myself only 30 kilometers or so from Prince Geore
so I decided to just push on, finally arriving in the city and paddling
right PAST my planned takeout at Cottonwood Park where I'd get picked
up. I'd mistakenly thought I had to enter the Fraser and paddle upriver
a kilometer or so first. WRONG! Back down the Fraser and back UP the Nechako
a couple kilometers aainst some fast, strong currents, I fianlly arrived
at 10:00 PM, ending a 13 hour day! When Debbie arrived to pick me up,
we loaded my gear into the truck and headed to their home just outside
of the city where I was treated to a late midnight supper of pasta and
salmon and a much needed shower. Exhausted from the days 95 kilometers
of canoeing, I was asleep just before my head hit the pillow.
Tomorrow will be a day off as I get ready for the next portion of the
trip, 60 kilometers of paddling UPRIVER on the mighty Fraser River followed
by the grueling 13 kilometer Giscome Portage, a famous portage trail linking
the Fraser and Peace River systems....crossing the Artic Divide and entering
the Artic watershed, leaving the Pacific watershed portion of the trip
behind me. More on that later in the next update.
Cheers...Joe O'Blenis
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